Initial Prep (Debur, Dimple, and Countersink)
8/8/2021 – 0.6 hours
8/10/2021 – 0.8 hours
8/11/2021 – 0.7 hours
8/12/2021 – 0.5 hours
8/13/2021 – 0.8 hours
This step uses five parts that need to be prepared prior to assembly. Most of the parts are flat with straight edges, which helps speed the process along. There is an aft frame (bulkhead) that is curved with several facets in the flange, which takes significantly longer to prepare. In addition to deburring, the flanges on the frame need to be rounded to allow the skin to attach smoothly.
Dimpling the flanges of the F-01409 upper aft frame and the F-01414 aft deck is pretty standard, but you definitely need to pay attention to the plans and what you are doing – especially on the aft deck. There are 8 #40 holes on the top of the aft deck to dimple, and I initially dimpled them the wrong direction because I wasn't paying attention. I flattened the dimples and reset them the correct way. The aft flange of the aft deck also gets dimpled, and the thing to keep in mind is those are #30 holes – not #40. After a brief moment of confusion, I figured it out and carried on with the correct dimple dies installed in the C-Frame.
[Hole and Edge Deburring Tools, 22” C-Frame with #30 and #40 Standard Diameter Dimple Dies]
Prime
08/12/2021 – 1.2 hours
8/14/2021 – 0.4 hours
With just a few relatively small parts, the process of scuffing, scrubbing, cleaning, rinsing, degreasing, and priming goes pretty quickly. I did the scuffing and cleaning before I dimpled the parts to save some wear and tear on the Scotchbrite pad, and then completed the degreasing and priming process after I dimpled the parts. I am working with a fellow builder on a paint booth in a large bay in his workshop, which will be great for larger parts as well as overall priming and painting; but smaller parts are easy to prime on a folding table outside as long as the weather is good.
[Grey Scotchbrite Pads, Bon-Ami Cleanser, Dupli-Color Degreaser, Dupli-Color Self-Etching Automotive Primer (Green – Rattle Can)]
Assemble
08/19/2021 – 1.1 hours
8/20/2021 – 3.5 hours
8/21/2021 - 4.8 hours
8/22/2021 – 3.9 hours
I looked at the zip ties holding the wires in place for several days, and wasn't happy with them. They are bulky, and have very sharp edges where I trimmed them near the buckles. I decided to try my hand at lacing cord, but I had to do that before closing off the aft bulkhead areas with the aft deck. I cued up the EAA Hints for Homebuilders video on lacing electrical wires (
https://www.eaa.org/Videos/Hints-for-Homebuilders/Electrical/635353221001), and it seemed do-able. I'm certainly not going to win any prizes for my lacing job, but it is functional and I like it a lot better than the zip ties.
I used both the pneumatic squeezer and the rivet gun to install the aft deck rivets, I started with the squeezer for the rivets along the sides as well as some of the rivets near the aft deck cut-outs. I used 3” and 1” yokes as well as a 2 1/2" longeron yoke to reach as many rivets as I could. The rest I set with the rivet gun and 1/8” cupped, 3/32” cupped, and flat rivet sets. Each rivet has its own unique requirements, and it takes awhile to get the right rivet set and bucking bar set up for successful riveting. There were also a couple of places where the plans called for rivets that are too short. I replaced one AN470AD4-4 rivet with a 4-5, and two 4-5s with 4-6s.
[Pneumatic Squeezer with 1”, 3”, and 2 1/2" yokes; 1/8” and 3/32” cupped squeezer sets, 3X Rivet Gun, 1/8” Cupped, 3/32” Cupped, and Flat Rivet Sets, Small and Medium Tungsten Bucking Bars, Clamps, #40 and #30 Drill]